That Wonderful Question

By Aaron on Sat, 09 Jun 2007

There are lots of questions, but one of my favorites is “Where are we going to eat?” Not just because I enjoy a good meal, but because there are so many great cuisines to be found here. Back in the US I was often asked what I missed most about my time in Taiwan and I would invariably include “the food” as part of my reply. While I can’t find Tian-Bu-La in Hong Kong, the food here is still excellent.

At this exact moment, I’m enjoying a quiet afternoon at the house while Jenny, Maeli and my mother visit some of the markets in Hong Kong. That means I have my choice of Lamma’s restaurants for dinner. Just considering the single village up the road, my options include:

  • a vegan cafe (with great vegetarian lasagna and shepard pie)
  • two decent Indian restaurants
  • a small Thai shop
  • a Japanese restaurant (with a decent sushi menu)
  • a middle eastern place (falafal, lamb, etc.)
  • a pizza joint (real pizza too)
  • a few western style bars
  • a few dessert shops including fresh cakes, pies and ice cream
  • a dozen or so Chinese places with seafood specialties

And this is just all in walking distance on our tiny little island. Between Jenny’s excellent cooking and the food here in Hong Kong, I’m getting rather spoiled.

Chinese Stars

By jenny on Sun, 03 Jun 2007

Aaron and I finally got the chance to see “Pirates of the Caribbean - At World’s End.” It was a rather trying experience getting into the theater. We attempted to book seats at two different cinemas in Hong Kong Central but none were available. We ended up at Cyberport, which is on the south side of Hong Kong island. There were seats to be had but the theater was nearly full when the credits rolled. All the while I was wondering why the cinemas were so full. They hadn’t been like this for the other “box office hits” that we’ve recently seen.

Before I move onto the theme of this blog, Chinese Stars, I must first admit that the third “Pirates of the Caribbean” movie was by far the best pirate movie I’ve ever seen. It was everything a pirate movie should be.

So as Aaron and I were watching the pre-movie commercials (which only last a few min in comparison to 15 min in the States) a very involved VISA ad caught our eye. Starring Jackie Chan, Hong Kong native, the commercial was also set in Hong Kong. In his own comedic way, Jackie Chan bought athletic gear left and right to try and compete for a spot in the Olympic Games (which is a huge source of hype in these parts).

It didn’t take long for another Chinese star to take the screen. At the opening appearance of Chow-Yun Fat, someone cheered out “Chow-Yun Fat!” This was all very shocking because Chinese people don’t lose composure in this manner. But for such a super-star like Chow-Yun Fat I guess there are exceptions.

China doesn’t have many “Hollywood” names. Hong Kong at least has Jackie Chan and yes, Chow-Yun Fat. But Chow-Yun Fat didn’t grow up in the city. He was raised in a house without electricity on the southern side of Lamma Island. Yes, our fair island is home to a most beloved Chinese star. Chow Yun-Fat grew up working in the family fields and selling dim-sum and vegetables in the mornings with his mother. Before he turned 20 he responded to a talent search ad. Twenty-some years later he would star in “Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon”.

I wonder, along with other wondering and hopeful Chinese, if Chow-Yun Fat and Jackie Chan are the beginning of a trend in Chinese culture.

Becoming Chinese

By jenny on Sun, 22 Apr 2007

Our first visitor has arrived! As a rule grandmothers can’t stay away for long, especially if they only have one grandchild.

My mother arrived in Hong Kong looking typical of someone suffering fifteen hours in dry air. “Shouldn’t that flight be illegal” was my greeting. But because of her new Isagenix lifestyle, she hasn’t skipped a beat. We awoke this morning to attend Sunday Mass at Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church on Lamma. It’s always a pleasure to go to mass with family, bringing back memories of little girls giggling in the front pews.

Our plans are beginning to solidify for the coming weeks. The giant buddha, Hong Kong Disneyland, and Victoria’s Peak are just a few of our destinations. Of course we’ll have our share of lazy days on the beach.

So far, it’s interesting having our first visitor. On day one I feel like everything must be explained. Why do we take our shoes off in Church? Who set the standard for fashion here? Why are Chinese people the way they are?

For a foreigner, arriving in Hong Kong makes the transition a little easier. When it comes to modernization, Hong Kong is leagues ahead of mainland China. And quite honestly, even after traveling around Asia for 4 months I’m still trying to get a grasp on this culture. Slowly and painstakingly, I’m trying to fit in.

On the road to becoming Chinese, the first rule is to blend in. With Maeli that is near impossible. Since we now have a home in Hong Kong, at least we’re on our way.

The second rule is to respect authority. In church this morning one of the offertory prayers was for people who say “yes sir” all day. Oppression has been a long-standing trend in China and since rebels aren’t tolerated it’s just easier to say “yes sir.”

The third rule is the hardest for me: saving face. That generally means making people feel good about themselves even if you have to lie. Well, all I have to say about that is “crap.”

It’s a giant leap to move to Asia… especially for this Greener Grad who appreciates counter-culture. This visit from my mother is my first chance to explain a few things about how the world works on the other side of the globe. At least I realize that the true translation of “teacher” is “still learning.”

Working Mom

By jenny on Sat, 14 Apr 2007

In a few weeks I’ll join other tired women and become a working mom. I accepted a position at Language Tree, a placement agency in Hong Kong. They impressed me with extensive interviews and legitimate visa processes. A lot of employers just care about a white face. Some offer illegal methods for working papers or they want to pay under the table.

I’ll be working full time at a local kindergarten for the 2007-2008 school year. More details will be provided as September approaches. Until then I’ll pick up short term contracts. Language Tree has already promised me work on Tuesdays and Thursdays. As jobs come up my week will fill in.

I’m looking forward to working part-time at first. Teaching is an intense profession with a lot of prep work. I don’t mind easing into it.

Next week I’ll be investigating schools for Maeli. I think she’s better off in school for at least a half day. Whenever we bump into other children she’s ready to make friends. And some days it feels like we’re an old married couple who’s been cooped up too long. Probably what Maeli needs is some simple consistency.

For me, having a year or so of work experience will be a nice break. In a few years I’ll be ready to take the motherhood plunge again. Until then I’ll join the work grind while Maeli becomes a little miss.

Getting to Lamma

By jenny on Mon, 09 Apr 2007

It’s official. We have moved into our first overseas (long-term) apartment. Aaron and I have begun to settle in and already Aaron has calculated and charted everything we still need to make our apartment a home. I took my time at the grocery store and happily spent the evening making guacamole. We accepted an invitation to a roof-top barbecue with our new neighbors. We ate fish balls with Allen, an Australian editor. He was sure to point out the quirks of the island such as the foot long centipedes that like to bite you in bed. This brings a whole new meaning to the phrase “Don’t let the bedbugs bite.” Maeli acquired a tricycle and push along dump truck from the former tenants. Since I’ve been eyeing riding toys for three months now, they make a wonderful housewarming gift.

Our new home feels warm and safe. Aaron and I are mostly relieved that the move to Lamma went so smoothly. We both had our concerns with toting three very heavy suitcases on and off Hong Kong’s public transportation. Even this morning when we told the bellhop that we were headed for the light rail line he looked at us sideways. Without skipping a beat we attracted all sorts of looks today but for different reasons.

Our luggage situation has changed slightly. We discarded our smallest suitcase for a large one. We could barely contain our belongings within the seams of our cheap Sears luggage. When we travel, Aaron handles the two largest suitcases, also the two heaviest, while I get one suitcase plus one little two year old. Even if I were to attempt the two biggest suitcases I would still get stuck with the two year old. Everyone knows that little girls like their mommies.

To review the order of operation, we started off on the light rail. We rode that until the end of the line and then had to transfer to the subway system. Mostly this involved a lot of walking to find the lifts. No one says elevator here. We rode the subway to the end of the line, dropping us off in Hong Kong central. We ended up walking through IFC Mall with lots of stares. I could hear people thinking, “Who are these lost travelers? Are they looking for a hotel?” After a long walk we made it to the ferry pier. Upon arrival to Lamma we walked to the real estate agent office who thankfully let us use their trolley to cart our stuff to our new place. All told it took us two and a half hours for the entire journey. I think we made excellent time and in the end we were wholly astonished that our journey avoided stairs of any kind.

Tomorrow we will make a trip to Hong Kong to pick up some essentials that are hard to get on Lamma. Now if only we have this much luck with me finding a job.